Bespoke Shoe Making Process: Measurements | Dominic Casey | Hanger Project

Bespoke Shoe Making Process: Measurements | Dominic Casey | Hanger Project


HI, I’m Kirby Allison. We’re really
excited to be here outside of London in
Eastbourne on the southern coast of the
United Kingdom here at the Lastmaker
House with Dominic Casey; renowned lastmaker and bonafide bespoke shoe maker
extraordinaire to learn more about the
bespoke process. First, he’s gonna be
taking my measurements.
You know trained properly as a lastmaker
he is going to take my
measurements and then today we’re gonna
see him begin to carve my last out of
a solid block of wood. So, it’s gonna be
really exciting. I’m thrilled to be here,
Dominic. Thank you so much for having me.
… Welcome! Thank you for coming… Exciting to be down here… It’s nice to get you out of
London… It is. It’s nice to be in the
proper, you know in the seaside. Yeah.
Yeah, so talk to me a little bit about
kind of what we’re gonna do here. So,
the first thing that any bespoke
shoemaker has to do when he starts off
making a pair of shoes is actually
obviously measure the client’s feet. So
the first thing that anyone really ought
to be doing is actually taking a look at
the shoes that you’ve come in wearing
really and we need to take them off you
and the first thing I always like to do
is look through them and begin to
understand how you’re carrying your
weight. What’s happening with the inside
of the shoe that you’re wearing at the
moment, because your weight will
beginning to mold an impression into the
leather insole there. So the shoes that
you’re actually wearing is going to be
telling me a lot about the shoes that
we’re going to be going and how I’m
actually going to be making the last for
you. So the first thing is to get these
off you and see where we need to go from
here. So obviously left and right. Just
checking, was that the berluti knot that
we’re undoing at the moment? It is! It’s a
good eye. Yeah. So how do you know about
the berluti knot before? Well actually,
funny you should mention it. I learned
about it on YouTube watching one of your
videos so I’m now pleased to say that I
can recognize a berluti knot. Your shoes aren’t coming untied anymore. My shoes are not
coming untied. Exactly. So this is a pair
of bespoke Cleverley’s. Yes. I don’t
remember which, I think maybe my third
shoe. Right. Yeah they fit quite well. So
the first thing that I always
like to look at is actually if you
actually look down through the shoe, I
can actually begin to see the
indentations and the molding and the
marks where your foot is actually
leaving some impression on the leather
insole there. So the colors and the depth
of the color is actually telling me
where you’re carrying your weight. Kind
of like an imprint. It’s exactly like
an imprint. It is in fact the
imprints of your foot. So it’s showing
me where all of the pressure points are
coming. So I know that I can begin to
actually lift your foot up and I can
actually begin to feel where the bones.
There’s a very strong mark where this
bone is dropping down. There’s a strong
mark where that kind of toe bone is
actually hitting on your foot as well
and on the outside of this small toe. So
even though we actually haven’t started
measuring your foot yet, it’s beginning
to tell me information that I need to
actually understand about making a last.
And that’s quite different from customer to
customer. Yes. Exactly. So some customers
you’ll see a really strongly defined
impression in the base of their current
shoe and you actually put your hand
in it and then what i beginning to do is
if you run your hand down there you can
actually feel the way that your foot has
actually molded into the leather and the
cork internally on the shoe and that’s
telling me about the shape of the bottom
of your foot. So already you know we haven’t
actually done anything yet, but I’m
actually beginning to understand where
this joint, this bone here is beginning
to land, where that one’s beginning to
land and how all of this is actually
beginning to work even though we
actually haven’t. And then usually the
last thing I’ll do is I’ll just turn it
over and just begin to check out to see
what the wear pattern is looking
like on the base of the shoe. So I’d like
to see where the big toe is actually
landing on your foot. Where the big
joints and the little joints are landing.
And then I’d usually just take a look at it, just to see what the balance is
looking and how you’re kind of wearing
it. Whether you’re kind of kicking out
the outside of the toe on that side more
than the inside of the toe there. Which
probably tells me the foots rolling
slightly in that direction as it comes
down. So any type of pronation or? Any
pronation. So it’s you know this is kind
of full of
information that any kind of lastmaker
would really need to know before they
get going and really. Those types of, that type
of information would actually inform the
way you’re making the last. This is not
so much the shape of your foot, but it’s
actually telling me how your foots
working already. So that’s the the one
thing that we really need to gets grits
with. So we’re going to measure your
feet now. Essentially, really traditional
old school. The way that feet have been
measured and looked that for kind of
hundreds of years really. But as soon as
I actually start measuring your feet,
what I’m actually thinking about is how
I’m going to be carving a block for you.
So not only am I going to be measuring
your feet, I’m gonna start thinking about
the shapes that your and the
curvatures that your feet are beginning
to throw out. So I’m going to really
start thinking about the curvature on
the back of your heel here. I’m going to
start thinking about the thinness of the
ankle coming through on the inside and
the outside. I’m gonna start looking at
your instep here. I’m going to start
feeling for the bones. Because what I’m
gonna try and do is tie up the
architecture and the bone structure of
your foot with the measurements. So what
I need to do is is understand how this
is built and then I can actually begin
to copy it in terms of a last. So there’s
obvious things that I need to know like
are there any turned up toes? What’s that
little toe doing there? You know I’m
feeling that. There’s a little bit of
hard skin on the bottom of there. Sorry
about that. So I’m just making a note of
the fact that there’s weight coming down
on the outside of that toe. I’m looking
for any kind of hammer toes. Anything
that’s turning up. What about with
shapes also because certainly certain
feet can, you know are appropriate for
certain you know silhouettes of shoes.
Yeah. So that’s something you’re thinking
about here also? Exactly. I
can look at this shape straight away and
instantly you know I can see that
there’s a very different shape without
actually even measuring or looking at. I
can just look at the shape of these
toes and you can see that there’s a
very different shape and profile between
your right over here and your left
over there. Now my job, I can instantly
see without even measuring anything that
the left is a very different shape from
the right. So my job as a lastmaker is
to actually make you a pair of shoes and
a pair of lasts. So one of the things
that we all have to do as lastmakers
and shoemakers is interpret what we’ve
actually got on the foot. Translate it
into a pair of shoes that looks like a
pair of shoes. Even though you can see
that shapes are completely different at
the frontier. There’s a, there’s great
news for you,
Kirby. You have and not many people who
have told you this. You’ve got a lovely
pair of feet. Okay. Thank you. So you’ve got there…
so there’s hope for you. So what
it, just with the shape of this foot. It
allows you to make many different types
of toe shapes. So just the general
shaping of it. There’s not, there’s
nothing too dramatic going on which is
going to scare anybody really. Okay. Great.
So let’s start getting some measurements
on there. The first thing that we really
need to make sure is whenever you’ve got
somebody sitting down. Whenever I want to
actually start making a last for you and
start making shoes for people is that we
need to check your socks.
Okay. So remarkably it makes a lot of
difference. The weight and the thickness
of the socks that you’re wearing. You know
sometimes we have people turn up in
sports socks and stuff like that and
they want a pair of dress shoes made and
they’ve come in with the trainers from
their gym. So you know as long as this is
the kind of standard weight sock that
you’re going to be wearing. Absolutely.
We’re kind of in good
shape. And the other thing about wearing
socks is sometimes when you get people
with a self measurement forms, they tend
to make if you draw a foot and it’s not
got a sock on it, it tends to splay out.
So the toes tend to splay out and one
thing that a sock actually begins to do
is actually hold your foot in some shape
as well. Okay. So that’s it’s important
for us because that’s actually beginning
to give us and define us some shaping
there. So the first thing that we need to
do is actually make sure your leg’s
sitting straight. We can’t afford it to
be rolling out because that’s going to
change the profile and we can’t really
afford it to be knocking in. So we have
to get the leg
making sure that you’re sitting
comfortably and the foot sitting here.
Now, this is traditionally the way that
we’ve always taken shoe drawings is with
clients sitting down. There is I think
there’s probably as many different ways
of actually taking shoe drawings and
foot drawings as there are shoe makers.
Everybody seems to have some different
system and I think the one thing that we
say to the students when they’re on the
courses here and they’re drawing around
the foot, is you have to be systematic
and methodical. So as long as you always
approach everything in the same
standardized way, then you’re going to be
in good shape with making a reasonable
shape last.
Every lastmaker maybe different. Every lastmaker has a different way, but they need to be consistent
They need to be
be methodical. So,
the first drawing is quite
simply an outline plan of the foot. The
second thing that I’m really interested
in is the actual shape of your arch
and where the actual arch runs through
here. So I need to actually understand
what kind of angle that’s lying out
there really. So the pencil goes in 45
degrees and we draw an arch line and
that comes down to your large joint bone
here.
Speaking of metatarsal bone and that’s
really going to give me some really
strong indication of how I’m going to
actually cut the last and when we
actually start looking at the last we’ll
be drawing that line back into the last
so that one will go back in here and the
final thing that I probably really want
to understand from here is just how
deep we want to make the last. I’d like
to understand somehow where your foot is
actually beginning to land on the
drawing. So I’m just gonna make a final
mark right underneath your foot there in
the middle and that’s just going to give
me a sense of where this outside
actually hits the ground. So again I
actually haven’t got an incompression
of your foot but I’ve got a very strong
impression of your foot running through
from the base of your sole and if you
actually look through there you can
actually see the dark mark running
on the outside where I can see all of
your weight coming down on the outside
of your foot. So I’ve already got quite a
good impression of what’s actually
happening on the base of your foot there
already. Um, some people take length
measurements as well. Some people
calculate it with the tape measure
afterwards, but I always like to have
some just sense of how long the foots
going to be. So it’s just the question of
the size that goes in there. I’m just
going to make a mark there. Six and three
quarters. And just record the overall
length of the foot. Okay. So simple
drawings really. A kind of simple overall
plan of the outside of the foot so it’s
just showing me the outside plan lines.
The inside of the arch and the depth of
the arch as well. So do you do anything
full load-bearing, where I’m like standing
up or? No, but what I will do is we’re
going to measure your feet and then what
we’ll do is we’ll make some adjustments
to the measurements when I actually
start to make the last. Okay. So we many
people would actually then get you to
stand on your weight and then measure your
feet with the weight on it and look at
the differences and some people would be
comfortable working that way um but
usually what we’ll do is we’ll just make
what I would do is just make some
adjustments to the last and then we’ll
see where we go at the fitting whether
we need to actually move from there. And
again, just as I’m drawing around it, I’m
beginning to just have a think about
what the actual physical structure, the
bone structure of your foot actually is.
You know I need to really, making a last
I need to actually understand the
curvature and the shape of this heel
here and I’m just going to actually
measure the the back of this heel just
so I get some idea about how much
curvature here and how much I need to
bring the last in to give you a kick
around the back of the heel. So usually
I’m just floating my hand around here
looking for the instep bone. I’m looking
for whether any of the joints are
prominent. How the toes are actually
feeling. What’s happening with that big
nail at the front,
so we don’t want that kicking up into
the top of the shoe. So and again once
again it’s just a very simple outline
plain drawing of the foot. Pencil,
straight up all the way around. Probably
the way shoe makers have taken drawings
of feet for hundreds of years really. No
different whatsoever.
That gives me the general outline plan
when we actually go and look at starting
to make a last for you, that’s going to
be key for us. And do you write any of those
mea.. those observations down or is it
something you do afterwards? I will be
doing that afterwards. When I actually come
to start to make some notes and put some
measurements on here, that’s when I’ll
actually start to think. Well what I’m
actually going to do is I’m going to tie
up the measurements to the actual
structure of the foot so I’m going to be
looking at the bones and we’re actually
going to be putting the tape measure
around in very certain specific areas so
that when I actually come to look at the
measurements I know that actually all of
them are going to be relating to
physical parts of your foot so we might
as well just go over those so what I’m
going to be interested in is that the
widest part of your foot here. The two
bones here. I’m going to be particularly
interested in the gap between your small
toe, the metatarsal here, and actual
beginning or front of the small toe.
I’m going to be particularly interested
in your cuneiform bone, which is just
sitting off here. Bearing in mind that
the front, the cuneiform it actually runs
off at an angle towards the big toe
joint. It doesn’t actually come down
straight. If you look at a lot of modern
lasts, it actually come straight down
the middle of the foot the cone. But
actually on a bespoke last and one of
the things that gives the bespoke last a
really interesting shape, is that this
angle runs off in this direction down
towards this bone here. So I need to know
where that cuneiform bone is because
that’s going to give me the middle of
the arch line. I really need to know
where this point is where your leg and
your foot meets the actual break point
between the two. So that’s going to give
me the top of the shoe just underneath
there so
when I take this measurement I’m
actually going to be thinking about
actually this is the point here where
the laces are going to be meeting, just
here and I’m going to be really
interested in the length of this heel
line running across here as well so that
I can actually understand how to
triangulate the circumference
measurements with some of the length
measurements. So actually I’m going to be
getting all of the measurements from the
actual structure of your foot and that’s
going to be tying up again on to the
actual drawing here and with those
hopefully we’ll be able to get a decent
last made for you. So the one thing that
I need to understand here is the shape
of your arch, because I actually want to
be able to cut the shoes and cut the
last in so that sits in nicely through
the arch here. So I just need pencil at
45 degrees, classically and I just need
the shape of that curve there just so
that I know how that arch runs through
here and then the pencil needs to go
right under. I just want to get some idea
of exactly where your foot actually hits
the floor and again before on this one
you can really see in this one there’s a
strong patina. There’s a strong change in
color between the light parts of the
insole where there’s no weight bearing
and the dark part of the insole where
it’s all the weight is borne on the
outside. So that shoe is telling me where
you’re actually carrying the weight of
your foot. So the last thing I want
to do is and when I’m down here, I’m
gonna mark two things. I’m just gonna
mark the widest part of your foot here.
The biggest, all joints there. And the one
measurement that I probably need to do
and just take a look at to give me some
idea is one of the curves that I need to
understand is how this back curve works.
So I’m just gonna simply, I’m thinking in
terms of a back height of a shoe, so if
I’m going to make a shoe and cut a shoe
where the back of this is going to come
to. And I need to understand if a
stand a pencil up straight there, you
can see that it creates a bit of a gap
there and I just want to get a
measurement there so that I can
understand how much this cuts in and
it’s usually five,
six, seven, mills not a huge amount. Six
millimeters. So that’s just gonna, when we
actually come to look at the last, that’s
going to give me some idea about how I
need to actually curve this back to get
a nice fit round the back of the heel.
And in terms of width,
I’ll just have a feel around here. And
you’ve got very slim heels at the back
of your foot here, so I might just make a
note of that on the drawing so it’ll
give me a good idea. I want to look to
see if you’ve got any heel spurs. That
touch of a heel spur just on the outside
here, but nothing too dramatic. Very slim
heel. So I know that when I actually come
to make the last, I’ve got to be really
clipping the last through the sides to
give you a good shape of the back. And
that’s essentially traditionally the way
the one thing that I do want to do is
I’m just going to check this because I
measured the other side. I just want to
see what kind of length we’ve got running here as well.
So only a slight difference between the two.
Quarter of a size in terms of the actual
length between the left and the right. So
nothing drastically dramatic there.
Okay so one of the things that while you’re
just sitting down, Kirby, I just want to
actually feel the base of your foot
really. Because, I’m just I mean I’ve got
the foot impression from the shoes. I
mean I’ve got a basic drawing. I just
want to feel underneath. Just see if
there’s any surprises. Anything that I
really need to know about. And usually
here you’d begin to feel, perhaps some
people have the metatarsals have
actually dropped down through the flesh
so you can actually begin to feel the
bones sticking out at the base. You know
you’ve got a slightly prominent ball
joint just here, but it’s not going to be
anything that’s really going to affect
the shape of the last dramatically. So or
some people have very strong prominent
cuneiform bones just here, which causes
real physical discomfort when they’ve
got a lace-up shoe and it starts
catching on that bone. So really it’s
just the question of well I’m just down
here before I start putting any
measurements on just
really looking at the foot feeling the
foot and just feeling if there’s
anything that I really need to have any
issue with. But the great news is you’re
in good shape at the moment. Maybe twenty
years time. And this is a point that is
often quite painful for me. Yes. I mean
that’s you’ve got a slightly prominent
cuneiform just there. I mean I mean it’s
a standard structure in a foot so many
people have that and it’s just something
that this one on this side is not so
prominent but it’s just something that
we need to be aware of especially when
you’re wearing a kind of an oxford
lace-up shoe like that because obviously
the closing system is catching
right the way across there. So that’s
something that we just need to be aware
of. Right, so the first measurement is I’m
always as I saying to you, I’m looking at
relating the measurements down to the
actual bone structure of your foot. So
the first one is that I’ll need to come
from across the large joint here. Okay.
And I’m going to come across between
your little toe, the back of the toe, and
the middle of the toe. So I’m really
coming into this gap in between the two
and again I’m just going to take a
circumference measurement across there
and again these are the kind of
measurements that in many ways most
shoemakers will take. I’m going to take a
diagonal measurement across across the
widest part of your foot here from the
bone there to the bone there. Again, tying
it up into the way that I’ve actually
drawn the plan of your foot. Just
interestingly, is that does that feel too
tight for you Kirby? If I was to have slacken
off the tape measurer to that is probably
better isn’t it? That’s better, yeah.
That’s better, yeah. Some people will take.
I’m just gonna put the tape around there.
That’s a behind the joint measurement
and remember on or I can’t think and
knowing three quarters.
That’s the measurement that really gives
a bespoke shoe that feeling of when you
actually put the shoehorn along you
think my goodness this is quite tight.
I’ve I really actually got a push because
obviously this measurement, the behind
measurement here running across here is
obviously a lot smaller.
I mean it’s substantially half an inch
smaller than the widest part of your
foot. So to get a nice shape into your
last, I want to actually cut this
curvature and actually bring the last in
here. So I’m going to give you that real
kind of pull-on feel. So that’s the
measurement that gives me some idea how.
That’s the noise of a bespoke shoe
coming in that measurement through there
as well. With a lot of ready-to-wear
shoes, when they make last, ready-to-wear
last, they keep this measurement much
fuller. So it makes it a lot easier to
actually put the shoe on and you don’t
get that same kind of pull. You don’t
actually get the overall of actually
putting on a bespoke shoe. So I’m looking
for the cuneiform bone now. So the tape
measure is going to come up through the
middle of the arch over to the cuneiform
and it’s a circumference measurement
running round there that. And I’m wary of
the cuneiform, so I’m gonna as we discussed
before, this is quite prominent on your
foot so I just need to make a note that
one of the things that we need to do
here and we’ll start looking for that
bone when we start carving the last, this
is a point I’m going to be looking out
for as discussed earlier. So the next
point I really want is again the
structure of your foot this point is
where the top of the shoe is going to
come to, where the laces is going to come
to. So I’m interested in when the where
the break is between the leg and the
foot here. Again, up through the arch over
to where the break comes to. We’ve got a
nice old-fashioned imperial measurement.
And then the final measurement across
the heel, from the heel up to the the
same area that we were looking at before
where that measurement came to.
So we are going to come across there.
Thirteen and a half.
Most shoemakers in any number of
variations will essentially do those
principal measurements. That’s the one.
The only thing that we would really
discuss maybe do differently is some
people will measure with your weight
standing up or your weight on the foot
so the actual foot begins to splay out.
But as we actually look at your when we
actually start to make that last, what
we’ll do is we’ll put some adjustments
on to the measurements so that we’ll make
some accommodation for the movement
of your foot and we’ll discuss that at a
later date while we actually do that.
Right. Okay, so. Same thing for the left?
Same thing on the left.
Okay, if you pop your foot up there.
Are you sitting nice and comfortably? So
again thinking about the structure of
your foot. Feeling your foot. Thinking
about the bones inside your foot. So the
first area that I’m looking at is straight
across from the joint, the large joint
here to the dip between the fifth
metatarsal here and the beginning of
your pinky. So I’m looking at coming into
this gap here with the tape measurer. So
just roll your foot back Kirby and then
so it’s going to come over there over
the large ball joint. I’m just going to
make it a little bit easy.
Okay, again thinking about the structure
inside your foot I’m looking for this
bone here.
Prominent bone there. The fifth
metatarsal bone and your big toe joint.
And again, take measure underneath your
foot over the top.
Okay.
Just the behind measurements. Some people
don’t take this measurement, I always
like to have it. This is the one that
just allows me to cut the last in behind
your foot.
At this
point these are just all standard
measurements that you would use. Yes. For
any last. Yes. There’s nothing kind of
particular about my foot that you
know is sticking out or… No exactly. No.
I mean you’ve got you’ve got a very kind
of well for want of a better word, normal
looking foot really. So yeah which is a
reason why you have kind of lovely
looking shoes made for you because your
foot shape really encourages my shoes.
And then the final measurement. You see
me glancing all the time at your other
measurements because I’m just checking
to make sure that they’re all actually
in relation. I can see that you’ve got
very much a pair of feet apart from just
this shape at the front here, which is
slightly different. But I was just
actually always checking back looking at
the measurements in relation to one
another just to make sure that they’re
in line with each other. And are you
carving each last individually? Yes. So
each last will be carved completely
individually. So yeah we’ll go a bit
there be different and the same. The
great art is to actually make them look
the same even though the measurements
and the feet are completely different. So
but with yours, they’re going to be so
subtly different that we don’t really
need to worry about it too much. But just
want to just check that measurement, Kirby.
Yeah, that’s right.
Can I just check that one? Okay.
We’re done. What are you seeing there? No, I
just wanted to make sure that there’s a
difference between the width across here
and the width across there. This one is
wider. This foot is just wider in this
area just here. Yeah. So I’m just just
checking out ..half an inch is…
Yes, I was just beginning to check out
just to make sure that these were
correct. Just wanted to really make
sure that that’s, we’re in the right
place there because that was what. Which
could make sense because I’d normally
whenever I stand I’m putting the weight
on this foot. Right. You usually find that
if someone… Are you right footed? If you
were playing soccer, as you Americans
say, would you be right footed?
Absolutely. Yeah.
Just want to really check this, that’s
the one thing that…
I think that certainly, it’s certainly
fuller than the other side. It’s not that
it’s not it’s more quarter of an inch.
I’m just gonna take that down to 1/16. But
there’s a definite difference between
the two. So that’s the one thing that is
always checking the measurements. I was
actually looking back at the others and
just. You can actually begin to see that
now, but this foot is actually wider just
through there than it is through there.
And I just need to check one of the
things that I want to do is just have a
look at this piece of flesh on the
outside here just to see how much. One of
the things you don’t probably want to do.
This is a part of the foot which you can
afford as a lastmaker and a shoe
maker you can afford to move this. This
is a very soft fleshy part of the foot.
So we might be. We’re going to be tucking
your last in just in that area there.
It’s not going to have any impact on the
way that the foot, the shoe is actually
going to hold your foot, but it’s gonna
make it nice and snug through there. So
that’s the last bit that I just wanted
to check to see how much we could move that. You
just have a bit of a feel around the
back of the heel just to make sure everything’s okay.
So then you’ll take this? And we’re done.
I guess next we’ll see you set up the last. Yeah.
well and we’ll head downstairs into the
workshop and we’ll start to sort of lock
out and get something organized. That’s exciting. I’ve never seen
a last be made so. Great. This
could be a treat. Super! Yes. Thank you.
Look forward to it. Pleasure. Great.

100 thoughts on “Bespoke Shoe Making Process: Measurements | Dominic Casey | Hanger Project”

  1. Kirby, I've been meaning to ask but had forgotten until this measurement video, do you know if bespoke shoes can work well with flat feet and overpronation? I imagine that shoes can be made for just about any type of feet, but you mentioned certain types of feet working better with certain silhouettes. So my question really is, what types of silhouettes in bespoke shoes would be better for flat feet?

  2. I know absolutely nothing about how to make a shoe so this question will be peppered with ignorance. Isn't this just an extremely difficult way of making a cast of someones foot? What is achieved by this method that couldn't just as easily be achieved by making a mold or cast of a foot? Just curious to know.

  3. Great video Kirby and great information. Dominic seems very engaging and interesting. i would love to have a course of bespoke shoe making in UK. do you recommend any? lastmaker seems has only last making course.

  4. What's funny about your bespoke series is that it almost appears as though you are making these videos as a way to justify to your significant other why you're spending so much money on bespoke 😉 but great series regardless 🙂

  5. @7:33 – "There is nothing too dramatic going on that is going to scare anybody."

    That is very funny.

  6. All, you might like this snippet as it related to dressing well as a man:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtFxX_uaJ6s

  7. Is there a second video showing the actual carving and the shoes? Curious to see the final products

  8. Super interesting video Kirby, interesting that I have very similar sized feet to you, along with slim ankle and also the prominent cuneiform, which in oxfords causes me discomfort. Have never considered bespoke, because in general G&G TG73 (along with Alfred sergeants 724) fit me fairly superbly out of the box, but I find many shoes simply don't have a narrow enough ankle, or a comfortable instep. I'd be interested to know how you've got on with off the shelf G&G lasts compared to your bespoke shoes.

  9. Can a shoe last be used to every other shoe you make? I mean, it's bespoke to you feet, so it stands to reason that it can be used to make all your other shoes.

  10. I am starting to make my own minimalist shoes and came to this video to learn how to measure my feet properly. The pressures and forces exerted by our shoes upon our feet shape them over time. Forces exerted by our muscles upon our bones (posture) can also shape our bones over time (you can look up orthotropics or look at an older person whose spine is excessively bent forward). So, looking at the wear patterns on our shoes is sort of a moot point. Only feet that never wear shoes can be described as natural. If you study up on it and study anatomy, you will see. Our shoes are designed to hold our feet in an unnatural position – toe spring holding our toes up in extension, a narrow toe box cramming our toes together, and a slope instead of zero drop from heel to ball of foot. Over time, the muscles in our feet lose their range of motion (try to spread your toes versus your fingers) and the bones become misshapen (look at Shaq's foot). Search for a picture of a foot that has never worn a shoe to compare. You will see how healthy it is. Almost all foot problems come from shoes.

  11. How can you measure the feet , and the client stand down…. you must take the measurement s with him standing up…
    If you do the right proper way , you will need only one pair for test…
    Everything else it s bullshit and marketing , how to obtain more money on talking and story !!!

  12. Bespoke shoe making is where the shoemaker creates your shoe by shaping a new block of wood to your measurement not using a already made shoe block and adding cork and whatnot to areas of the already made shoe tree

  13. Hmm. If I was the editor of this video, I would be a bit pissed. That look he gives at 18 seconds sort of says it all. More than that, Kirby really gives himself away before that in the way he seems to think of himself as a patrician with his hire. All the same, I was happy for the honesty.

  14. One day, a laser could scan the foot and a 3D printer could produce the last. It could be customised by the shoe-maker. M.

  15. Not sure how I got here…but I am always interested in old ways of doing things. GREAt video and thegentleman was wonderful and expalined everything in great detail.

  16. I wouldnt be surprised if he said "I also need to smell the foot in order to understand the heat levels that come from the soles. I smell each foot individually because it helps me understand if there are different heat levels eminating from the foot. This information will help me choose the appropriate type of leather to match the smell. I also need to taste the foot because [fill in the blank fake measurement bs]"

  17. This can be much easier if you left all the traditional nonsense out and brought this to 2019.
    1: take mold of foot
    2: take 3D scan (dot mesh, etc)
    3: upsize by 10% or whatever to make it comfortable
    4: 3D print that
    5: you have a 3D printed last slightly larger than the foot to ensure comfort while also having the exact foot shape
    6: profit

  18. Oh my – informative and interesting. "I have your shoes now – I must remove those fancy socks as well, sir. I assure you, it is necessary…"

  19. I like the part where Dominic begins to prepare to consider how to understand the structure of the foot as he begins thinking about when he's going to actually take the measurements, but not before he has thoroughly considered and begun to understand how Kirby's foot works.

  20. When I measure feet, I like to detach from the matrix and get a read out on the computer and then go back into the matrix and create the shoe. My way is less convoluted and more believable than this guys. Its shoe making, its not working at the LHC.

  21. “Your great uncle do no let me change his socks either. I just like the feet….I do not know why…” ~ Mr. Deeds. ~

  22. So I’m guessing it might be slightly insulting to call Mr Casey a cobbler ! 😀 Incredible attention to detail, the ultimate luxury.

  23. With apologies to Oscar Wilde, I have never seen someone go to so much effort to get dressed with such little result.

  24. Just came across your channel for some reason. Glad though. Very interesting video on the process of shoe making. Also notice you're left-handed.

  25. What a fascinating man. He speaks with the deep knowledge of long experience, and without a trace of pretension.

  26. Holy shit man! EXCELLENT job not rushing and asking all the intricate parts of his foot measurements 👍🏻 This is probably the best I’ve seen because you didn’t try to play up to the YouTube audience. A lot of times it comes off as insincere and unimportant if the host is more worried about the audience than what is actually taking place in front of him. Both men did an excellent job 👍🏻

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