Paco Roncero, el alquimista de los fogones

Paco Roncero, el alquimista de los fogones


Mi cuisine is very simple, really.
I like to define my kind of cooking as a
cuisine where, obviously, the main
and most important element is the fresh food,
the raw materials, and then comes taste
and also it is a cuisine with
undeniably traditional roots
but also with a strong influence of
avant-garde cuisine and modern cuisine.
Experimenting with fresh products and
changing textures and all these things
is something that Ferran Adrià, since he started
to stand out in this world, has instilled in us,
the idea of getting the most out of each product.
And in my case I have tried
to do so with olive oil.
For me it is one of our most important
products and one of my fetish products.
It is a must in any good menu
or any good taster menu.
I studied how to turn olive
oil into my star product.
Actually Sublimotion is the evolution
of a space we have in Madrid,
called Paco Roncero`s Workshop,
and here is where everything started.
It is true that, once again, it was Ferran Adrià who
inspired us and who started a gastronomic workshop
where we began, as any business
willing to innovate and evolve,
to develop and allocate spaces, resources,
time, money and people to research.
And well, I started to do so
many years ago, too.
And the day came when I felt the need
to evolve and to renew that space.
And I think every cook have been searching for their
little space where they could feel comfortable.
Some felt comfortable with vegetables,
others felt comfortable with meat,
others with some other products. And I wanted, at that
time not only to focus on what we serve in the dishes
but to build a complete, unique and better
experience for the customer as well,
involving everything around the
dishes, everything inside the restaurant.
And what I did was to team up with talented people
from other fields, because as I always say,
at the end of the day, we are just cooks
and we only know how to cook.
And alongside with the others we
started to design that space,
a space in which I wanted, of course,
lots of technology involved,
but I wanted it hidden under
the design, not visible.
I wanted the technology to be there but not
in an invasive manner, with lots of design
but nothing had to outshine the gastronomy.
Because for me what it is important in these
spaces is for gastronomy to be spectacular
and the rest just simple ornaments to make it a
different experience for the customer.
We wanted to take the workshop away from Madrid,
to take it to different places around the world.
And when we started to search for locations
we thought Ibiza was a very international place
with an impressive projection.
And that was a plus, and also the fact that
Ibiza people are more open minded
than any other city in the Peninsula,
even a city like the capital, Madrid
or even a city like Barcelona, where people
are much more open to these kind of thing.
But I think Ibiza in that
sense is the ideal city.
And then we needed a partner
at least a little bit as crazy as us,
with this little bit of insanity and who
would bet on a project like Sublimotion,
which needed undoubtedly
a strong investment.
But we believe it will pay off,
not only economically, but image-wise
and it can pay off with the idea of a different
experience when eating at a restaurant.
We haven’t even named the dishes.
We have named the scenes, the acts,
because for me this is like going to a theatre
to see a play with several acts, several scenes.
And you find a scene where you
will have a picnic in New York,
because I am in love with New York,
I love to run the New York Marathon
and one of my favourite places is Central Park,
so around you in the screens you’ll see Manhattan
and the table will be the grass of Central
Park with a very American picnic bag
but very different from a traditional picnic.
From there we move to a Versailles style palace
where people even needs to put on a mask to eat.
That comes from one film I like,
which is Beauty and the Beast.
Here we will make an edible rose and we’ve
designed a game for people to have a bit of fun
and it is a very exciting and funny moment too.
And there will be several scenes, like the one we
get you to the Centre of the Earth with an elevator
that goes down through the
different layers to the core.
Or you will eat a dish of shellfish surrounded by fish and even there will be something moving inside the plate.
But I can say no more.
For me, my work is my
hobby, my passion.
Anything I do I always feel
I am living a sweet moment.
But it is true that these last years,
specially the last 2 years,
I think I have evolved greatly at a
professional level and that I have matured,
but I think it is also important to have a team
of people who follows you in all your projects.
And this makes you grow and makes you
want to keep on trying reinventing yourself.
I believe that sublimation has been another step
in my journey towards understanding gastronomy
and as I told you before, I don’t know where are
we going to end but I am a very restless person,
I like to grow, I like to evolve,
I like to make new things,
I like to learn things from my colleagues and
then to be able to develop them my way.
And I believe that thanks to that mindset
the Spanish cuisine is where it is right now.
Because I think we all have
been acquiring this mindset.
And that’s why, right now, with so much talent and so many people within Spanish cuisine,
all this talent wants to evolve,
wants to grow, wants to develop things.
I believe that Spanish cuisine has grown and
has evolved so much in these past years
because we have gotten together
and we have been able to share.
I think there are several important factors.
One: We started to travel and got to know the world
and we were able to take in everything we learned,
make it our own and to develop it our way.
Two: I think we have the best raw materials in
the world, and even so, when we found some
raw materials that could influence us,
be good for us, and we didn’t have them here
we brought them and we made
them our own. And three: Sharing.
There is no other profession in the world capable
of sharing and being honest enough to tell others
where did you learn, where did you acquire some
techniques. And that helped us to evolve quickly.
I believe we are a talented guild and a
talented group of cooks, very professional.
We are willing to evolve. But then again, if you
look closer, we are a bunch of friends, also.
Whether gastronomy is trendy and
this trend will last or not,
I think we are indeed living
a very good moment right now,
maybe we have reached the top of the
pyramid in regards of media coverage.
TV shows are talking about us a lot.
But I also think for the last 15 years
we have been clever enough,
or better, coherent enough, to realize
that after all, we are just cooks,
that we need to take advantage of this
media support because obviously it helps
our businesses and it helps people
to know gastronomy much better
and that allows us to evolve,
because we get sponsors,
and we get help from
people to make this grow.
But it is hard to say. I believe that if we
keep doing things as we have until now
with care and with our
feet on the ground,
-and I think almost all cooks nowadays
are indeed keeping their feet on the ground-,
this should last much longer, because the act of
eating is something that will be there forever
and if, on top of it all, we are capable of developing new experiences and to give people new sensations
and, well, as we say, at the end of the day, if people
feel a bit happier after coming to our restaurants
they will keep coming.
We can be great prescribers
of many things,
of health, of course, of good eating habits,
but also the kitchen is a space
where you need to have a strict discipline,
because at the end of the day we need to open
at a certain hour and we need to feed a
certain amount of customers and it is all set,
so everything needs to be very well organized.
It is true we can be prescribers of many
things at an educational level
and that’s the reason why the number of people
who want to be a cook is increasing.
It is true the media
are helping a lot.
But right now I am truly amazed
every time a kid comes to me
asking for my autograph or some father tells me:
“Look, my kid loves cooking and all this”.
This makes us very proud.
I always said: when you tell kids to draw a cook, they always draw him fat and with a moustache, right?
That’s why some of us we
started to train, to prescribe health,
to try to make people, not to go
on a diet, just to eat coherently.
to make them eat their 5 meals a day, to eat healthy. If you go to a place and they have processed baked goods
then you better eat a yogurt or a toast
or anything much healthier
than a processed baked good which
is not going to provide any nourishment
and it is not going to provide
anything gastronomically speaking.
But, indeed, if you go to a place and
they have what I call the “cojocruasán”
you really need to eat that,
because that is giving you something.
I am very glad to see how the image
of the cook have changed nowadays
and I am very happy to see people who
want to be a cook, that is fantastic.
Honestly, I believe Spanish cuisine
still has a lot to offer the world
and that it is not going to be a trend because
we will take on the task of cooking well,
a cuisine based in what we now: our tradition,
our raw materials and that is always successful.
I am a long distance runner because I love
to run Marathons and I love to run the Iron Man
and I believe you need to do things slowly
and as a good long distance runner,
well, not good, I run… Time will tell if we
need to open more Sublimotions around the world.
That would be amazing for us, that would
mean we’ve done things right.

7 thoughts on “Paco Roncero, el alquimista de los fogones”

  1. No tan original, una copia descarada dell restaurante de Paul Pairet . Aqui se explica todo http://special.uvbypp.cc/ultraviolet-by-paul-pairet-shanghai-vs-sublimotion-by-paco-roncero-ibiza/

  2. Muy buen trabajo aunque tiene la idea de el somni del celler de can roca donde el menú tiene 12 actos y cada acto un nombre, usan también toda esa magia que activa los sentidos con sonidos, olores, colores y proyecciones, pero en si la experiencia debe ser muy buena, esta muy muy bueno el vídeo.

  3. Lo que hay que hacer para vender a los jilivainas y digo jilivainas por lo que se paga. Yo iria como una experiencia más pero no pagando ese dineral. Yo suelo primero ir al cine y luego a comer bien, no lo mezclo.
    Como se suele decir. "Estamos a setas o a rolex…".
    Lo primero es evidente que no es la gastronomía, la gastronomía es la excusa para vender y como hay que innovar porque todo esta inventado nos inventamos espectáculos de imagenes audiovisuales en 3D con gastronomía para intentar justificar los 1700€ que cobran.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OM88VvpbjdY

  4. فكرة جميلة ولكن تبقى قيمة الشخص غاليه ( ٢٠٠٠ دولار ) = ٧٥٠٠ ريال

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