Sports Jacket – Blazer – Suit – What’s The Difference? | 3 Classic Menswear Pieces


Sports Jacket – Blazer – Suit – What’s The
Difference 3 Classic Menswear Pieces
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Hi! I’m Antonio Centeno, the founder of Real
Men Real Style. Today, I’m going to be talking
about the sports jacket, the blazer jacket,
the suit jacket. What is the difference?
Many of you guys are out there. You’re out
there looking to purchase a jacket and you’re
like, “Okay, what is the difference? Can I
wear my suit jacket as a blazer jacket? Is
this blazer jacket technically a sports jacket?”
And it doesn’t help that a lot of people
out there selling these items don’t know
the difference themselves and they’re confusing
the terminology, confusing the words, and
in many cases, you see clothing being made
which is kind of a hybrid between them.
The rules I’m going to give you today, I’m
going to talk about each of the jackets and
I’m going to talk about the fit, the fabric,
and the function of each of them. I’m going
to give you general guidelines. You’re going
to find a lot of the clothing out there will
fall somewhere between these, but using these
guides, you’re going to be able to make a
smart, informed decision and make sure that
you purchase the right jacket, and just as
importantly, you wear the right jacket for
the right occasion.
Okay. Before we get into this, guys, I’d appreciate
it if you would subscribe to my YouTube channel.
That way, these videos come right to you.
I don’t want you to miss any of them and
I put out these little ghost videos, so if
you’re not subscribed, you’re not going to
get them. In addition, if you want more information,
go to Real Men Real Style. I’m going to link
down below, but I’ve created an entire infographic
and article that goes into more detail than
I talk about here in the video. Let’s get
into it.
Let’s start off with the suit jacket. Now,
many of you guys are familiar with this and
we’re going to talk specifically the definition
of a suit jacket, is a jacket that is made
with basically a matching pair of trousers.
And when I say matching, it’s made from the
exact same fabric. In fact, when I used to
— and I still own my custom clothier — whenever
we make clothing, we make sure it comes from
a suit. It actually comes from the same role.
The fabric is right next to each other if
they’re cut. What’s interesting is in a mill,
over time the actual color and the way things
— consistency, they try to keep high, but
if you actually try to match a pair of black
trousers or a black jacket, you may find that
they actually don’t match up. Sometimes
there’s a difference in the weave. Other times,
it may be that if you wear one more than the
other, they can start to fade, so that is
one of the reasons I recommend do not try
to wear your suit jacket as a blazer or a
sports jacket. Number one, it has a matching
pair of trousers and you keep them together.
The other part about this is suit jackets
are going to be the most formal. In men’s
style, in men’s clothing, usually the most
formal items are going to be the simplest.
You’re not going to see any fancy pockets
and you probably should avoid in your first
few suits fancy patterns, stripes, checks.
Now, those things are in some suits, but we’re
talking here — and if you’re watching this
video and you have that bit of confusion,
you probably need to focus on the foundation
suits, which are going to be charcoal gray,
navy blue, maybe lighter gray. If you’re looking
at black tie, which technically a tuxedo is
a suit, it is a matching jacket, matching
trousers.
So suit jackets, the buttons normally are
going to be on a lot of stuff being produced
today plastic, but hopefully we would see
horn on higher end jackets, again, mostly
going to be navy, charcoal gray, lighter gray,
occasionally black, although I’m not a big
fan of black for suits unless it is black
tie.
Now, let’s talk about the fit. A suit jacket
is made to fit a bit slimmer and should fit
you slimmer. Now, a lot of guys buy suit jackets,
which are too big, but a suit jacket is not
really made to be layered with clothing underneath.
You should wear a shirt under it, occasionally
maybe a sweater vest, something to keep you
warm in cold weather if you’re moving around
quite a bit, but you’re not going to wear
full sweaters underneath them, and we’ll talk
about in a few minutes why that’s important.
We’ve talked about the fit can be a bit closer.
The fabric, again in suit jackets, it’s mostly
going to be solids. You will see some pinstripes,
some chalk stripes, and some checks. The function
of the jacket is again the most formal. All
of the style aspects — and I get into this
more in the infographic. The function, if
you look at the lapel right here, this is
a sports jacket. You’re usually just going
to see, on a suit jacket, notch lapels. You
will occasionally see peak lapels especially
in formal wear. Black tie, you’ll see shawl
lapels and you will see peak lapels, hopefully
not notch lapels in formal wear. Guys, that
is a suit jacket.
Now, let’s go take a step lower. Let’s go
to the blazer jacket. The blazer jacket is
interesting because it’s a hybrid. It’s going
to be more formal than a sports jacket, but
it is not a suit jacket because it’s not made
with a matching pair of trousers as we had
talked about, so let’s first talk about the
fit.
I would say blazers you’re going to see sometimes
are going to be a little bit looser. They’re
not going to also be structured. Suit jackets
usually have more structure in the shoulders.
Blazers, you will sometimes see structure.
Other times, you may see a bit looser of a
build especially if it’s of Italian heritage.
Let’s talk about the fabric. Most blazers
you’re going to see out there, especially
ones you’re buying off the rack, are going
to be in navy blue.
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You’re going to see them made from blue worsted
serge and that’s the classic. You’re going
to see flannel. You’re going to see hopsack
occasionally, but really any lightweight worsted
wool. You can also sometimes see linen mixed
in there, but navy blue is going to be most
of the colors there. Now, there are some exceptions.
I know you’re going to see red, you’re going
to see green, but those are very rare. I talk
about regatta blazers and stuff in the article,
so go check that out if that’s what you want
to know about.
Now, the function, the function like I said
falls between the suit jacket and the sports
jacket. Sporting events, weekend events, anytime
that a suit isn’t appropriate, but you still
want to dress it up with a blazer. Now, what
can you match with a navy blazer? This actually
will apply to a sports jacket as well, but
gray flannel trousers, chinos, jeans — yes,
jeans, you can actually pull it off. You’re
also going to see colored twill, cords. There
are a wide number of things. Blazer jackets,
it’s not going to — the big thing right here,
it’s not going to have to match, guys.
I know many of you guys are waiting for this,
the buttons on a blazer jacket. Normally,
we’re going to see gold, silver, mother-of-pearl.
The buttons usually stand out on a blazer.
Now, let’s go to the sports jacket. Let’s
look at the word, sports jacket. The idea
was this was the sporting man’s jacket.
Because of that, let’s talk about the fit.
Remember I said that you shouldn’t layer with
a suit jacket. Well, with the sports jacket,
you can layer. This is a sports jacket. It’s
made from — we’ve got a tweed fabric right
here and what’s really nice about this is
that I can actually wear a sweater underneath.
It’s a little bit looser than some of my suit
jackets, and that’s the cool thing about a
sports jacket, is it’s actually made to be
worn out, to be a bit more rugged.
Nowadays, you’re not going to see that as
much, but that goes into the style and the
function of the jacket. So on the back of
the jacket, sometimes we’ll see pleats. We’ll
see arm patches that actually — well, once
they’re for a purpose. Now, they’re more for
show. We’re also going to see ticket pocket
occasionally, so the ticket pocket goes right
above the pocket right here and was for holding
a ticket. We’re also going to see on the lapels
I talked about, this is a sports lapel which
is made to actually close up the jacket because
if you’re out hunting, you want to be able
to protect your upper chest and neck area.
We’ve talked about the fit. We’ve talked about
the fabric. I didn’t go — there are a number
of types of tweed. I’m going to go into more
on this in the article and the infographic,
but we’re going to be thinking Donegal tweed,
Harris tweed, Houndstooth. You’ll also see
some solids in brown, green, gray, and blue.
Blue is pretty common and I like that especially
if you go with something that is different
than the navy and maybe bring in a bit of
a pattern. You will also see a wide range
of checks and patterns in sports jackets.
This is where it gets to be a little bit of
fun.
Now, the function of a sports jacket, of all
the jackets, this is the most casual. Don’t
try to wear a sports jacket when a suit is
required and a blazer isn’t probably going
to be the first odd jacket. Now, odd jackets
cover both sports jackets and blazers. I would
recommend definitely getting a sports jacket
after you have your first suit and then getting
a blazer.
Hopefully you guys found this useful, again,
a lot more information in the article and
the infographic, which I’ve created to go
with this video. Take care, gentlemen. I’ll
see you in the next video. Bye-bye.
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